• Skip to main content
  • Skip to secondary menu
  • Skip to primary sidebar

Gaynor Marshall | Sewing and Design

Designing Calm, One Stitch at a Time

  • Home
  • Store
  • About
    • Copyright
    • Disclosure Policy
  • Blog
    • The Cottagecore Aesthetic: Understanding What it is and How to Use it
    • Crafting for Wellness
      • Mindful Crafting: Unlock Creativity and Transform Wellbeing
    • Discover the Inventor of the Sewing Machine: A Fascinating History
    • Sewing
      • Spring Sewing Delights: Fresh Projects to Celebrate the Season
      • Sewing Essentials: Setup & Success
        • How to Set Up an Inspiring Sewing Workspace at Home
        • Sewing Tools: My Essential Top Ten
        • Stitch Library – Ultimate Guide
        • Successful Sewing: My 5 Secrets
        • Thread Basics: The Ultimate Beginner’s Guide to Sewing and Embroidery
    • Tutorials
      • Buttons: Make Your Own
      • Creative Ways to Use Machine Embroidery for Stunning Projects
      • Drawstring Bags: Make Your Own
      • Creative Embroidery Templates: Think Outside the Box for Unique Designs
      • Mini Bunting Make Your Own
      • Take Your Sewing to the Next Level
      • Zips
        • Zips, Part 1: Invisible Zip
        • Zips, Part 2: Semi-concealed Zip
        • Zips, Part 3: Concealed Zip
        • Zips, Part 4: Exposed Zip
  • Get In Touch
    • Cookie Policy
    • Privacy Policy
    • Terms & Conditions
Home » Tutorials » Page 3

Tutorials

Drawstring Bags: Make Your Own

October 3, 2017 By Gaynor Marshall

finished_drawstring_bag

I don’t know about you, but I love drawstring bags. They are so handy. They can be made in all sorts of different sizes and used for so many things; from toiletries to toys and everything in between. Use them as party bags for the kiddos or as a gift bag for a friend.

Use Your Stash

The bag I have designed is simple but depending on your choice of fabric it could look very elegant indeed. It could be embellished with buttons or embroidery stitches. In fact, the only limit is your imagination.

You don’t need any particular fabric either, so raid your stash and let’s start making.

The first thing is to decide how big you would like your bag to be. What are you going to use it for?

I decided to cut my fabric 10″ x 8″ (25cm x 20cm) approx. This gives the bag approx dimensions of 9″ x 7″ (23cm x 18cm). 

I used the edge of the foot as a seam guide.

Materials to Make Your Drawstring Bags

You will need:

  • main fabric
  • lining fabric
  • matching thread
  • ribbon or cord approx 5 times the finished width of your bag
  • sewing machine (optional) as these bags can be stitched by hand if preferred

drawstring_bag_supplies

Method:

  • Once you know the size you would like your bag to be, cut 2 pieces of the main fabric and 2 pieces of the lining fabric. I cut mine 10″ x 8″. You may like to press the fabric at this stage.

fabric_for_drawstring_bag

  • Pin the main fabric to the lining pieces, right sides together.

pin_fabric

pin_fabric_right-sides_together

  • Stitch along the top edge of the fabric pieces carefully.

stitch_along_the_top_edge_of_the_fabric

  • Press the seam allowances open.
  • Take both pieces of fabric and place these right sides together, lining to lining, main to main, carefully matching the seams and pin in place.

right_sides_together

  • Before we can stitch the pieces together, we need to mark the openings for turning the bag the right way out and also where we want our  ribbon/cord to be.
  • Leave a gap of 3-4″ in the seam of the lining so that the bag can be turned inside out easily.

leave_a_gap_in_the_lining

  • Mark points on both side seams approx 1.5″ (4 cm) down from the top line of stitching and then 1″ (2.5 cm) below that. This will be where the ribbon or cord will be threaded.

mark_points_for_the_ribbon_or_cord

marks_for_ribbon

  • Stitch all the way around the edge of the fabric, remembering to leave gaps where indicated. Reinforce the stitches at the sides of the gaps with a couple or reverse stitches to strengthen them.
  • Before turning your bag out, trim the corners to allow them to sit neatly.

trim_the_corners

  • Carefully turn the bag right sides out. Make sure you get into the corners for a neat finish.
  • Now handstitch the gap in the lining with a simple ladder stitch.

simple_ladder_stitch

  • Ease the lining into the main fabric and press gently making sure all of the seams are neat.

ease_the_lining_into_the_main_body_of_the_bag

  • After you have pressed the bag, and you are happy with the lay of the lining, top stitch close to the top edge.

top_stitching

top_stitching_from_inside

  •  After making sure the side seams are lying flat inside, stitch two lines all the way around the bag from the points marked at the seams. It may be easier to draw lines across the fabric for this, but make sure you can remove them easily afterwards.

stitch_two_rows_for_threading

  • Take the ribbon / cord and cut two pieces as shown below.

cut_two_pieces_of_ribbon

  • Using a safety pin, thread one piece of ribbon from one side, thread all the way around and bring it back out at the same side. Knot. Repeat from the other side with the remaining ribbon.

use_a_safety_pin_to_thread_the_ribbon

knot_ribbon

  • Press well…et voila! You have a gorgeous, bespoke, drawstring bag! To close, pull on both ribbons/cords at the same time.

drawstring_bag

gathered_drawstring_bag

close_up_of_drawstring_bag

These little drawstring bags are so easy to make, you’ll be making them for everyone! Have fun and if you take any photos I’d love to see them, just use #gmdesigns on Twitter and Instagram and I’ll take a look.

Until next time…

Gaynor xx

Mini Bunting Make Your Own

October 3, 2017 By Gaynor Marshall

elephant_bunitng_finished

Creating a string of pretty bunting is easier than you think.

For years and years the only time you saw bunting was at country fairs or in town centres. I’m not sure who brought it into the realm of everyday useage but I for one am happy they did!

bunting_outside

Adding a splash of colour

Bunting is such a simple way to add a splash of colour to any occasion; a garden barbeque; a baby’s nursery; a milestone birthday; a modern kitchen; a festive message. The possibilities are endless, as are the ways to make it. 

I thought I’d show you a how to create a string of mini bunting that would look perfect in baby’s room hung across a bookshelf or a window frame…or indeed anywhere you choose!

This mini bunting is another great stash buster as the amounts of each fabric are really small.

What You’ll Need:

  • patterned/feature fabric
  • plain cotton for the reverse of your feature fabric
  • 4 different plain cottons
  • bias tape approximately 165cm/65″ long
  • thread

Each flag measures approximately 11cm x 11cm (4.5″ x 4.5″) including a seam allowance of 0.5cm or 1/4″. I used my 1/4″ foot.

For the feature flags (those with the pattern) you will need 3 flags for the front and 3 plain for the reverse.

For the plain flags you will only need 2 of each colour.

bunting_supplies

Method

Cutting Out:

  • The first step is to create a template. A thin piece of card is easier to work with but if you are careful paper would be fine. Place the template on your fabric and draw around it.

mini_bunting_flag_size

  • You’ll need two of each of the plain colours and 3 for the patterned fabric and 3 for the back of those. To make the most of your fabric, place the template as shown in the image below. Please remember, if your printed fabric is directional (like mine) you need to ensure you cut out the flags with the print going in the same direction.

how_to_position_template

bunting_flags_cut_out

Sewing Together:

  • Taking each flag in turn, place right sides together and stitch down the long sides, starting at the top, pivot at the point and stitch back to the top.
  • Top Tip: Start sewing a little way in from the top of the flag. This prevents the fabric getting stuck in the feed dogs.

bunting_point

do_not_stitch_to_end

  • The next step is to trim the excess fabric at the points and a little off the seam. This helps to create a sharp point when the flag is turned right side out.

trim_corners_of_flags

trim_sides_at_flag_points

  • Carefully turn each flag, right side out and press.

finished_flags

  • Trim the ears at the top of each flag and you are now ready to attach the bias binding.

Adding the Binding:

  • Mark the centre of the bias binding with a gentle crease and attach the first flag (a patterned one). I find Wonderclips are a great alternative to pins for making bunting.

clip_binding_to_fabric

binding

  • I spaced my flags approximately 4cm/1.5″ apart, alternating them as I did so.
  • Stitch close to the edge of the bias binding making sure to catch both sides.
  • Turn over at each end and stitch down.

elephant_bunitng_finished

If you make any of your own bunting, feel free to share any photos over on Intsagram using #gaynormdesigns I’d love to see them.

Until next time…

blog_signature

Ultimate Stitch Library: Your Go-To Guide for Every Stitch

September 24, 2017 By Gaynor Marshall

stitch_sample

A stitch library is something every sewist should make.

“I finally bought the sewing machine, now what?”

I bet this question resonates with lots of people who’ve bought a sewing machine. You’ve dreamt of the day you can fill your world with things you’ve sewn yourself. The entire new wardrobe of clothes you’ll be able to make, the curtains and cushions…lots and lots of cushions.

You’ve spent weeks, months even years choosing just the right machine; you’ve watched all the shopping channels until you know as much about the technical aspect of all their machines as the presenters.

However, now you actually have the longed for sewing machine, what do you do? Where do you start?

Rainbow_threads_and_fabric

This scenario reminds me of the time, shortly after hubby and I got married; you know back when the world was still in black and white (as my boys thought when they were little!), when we bought our first microwave. I thought it was really exciting, hubby not so much, his mum already had one.

Anyway, we brought this cool, modern gadget home. This was going to save so much time, the gas cooker will just gather dust now, surely. Well, there it sat on the worktop and we stood and admired it, we read the manual, we read the suggested recipes. What though, should we actually cook first? No idea. We re-read the recipe suggestions. No. Nothing was jumping out.

Eventually, we heated something up, beans, I think. The point was, we were at a bit of a loss as to what we should do first. We, had been so caught up in having a microwave that we didn’t really plan beyond buying it, and that’s how many people feel when they open their first sewing machine at home.

Juno_and_my_new_machine

Well, the first thing to do is take it out of the box. It’s okay to sit and admire it for a while; you can make a cuppa, take out the manual and read it.

Familiarise yourself with the basics of the set-up and following the instructions in the manual, thread your machine. Practise a few rows of straight stitching on a scrap piece of fabric to check everything is working correctly.

At this point, unless you have a definite plan of action it would be so easy to put everything away. You know how it all works, you’ve had a little sew. Well, I suggest you do this instead…

You will have noticed that in the manual and probably on the machine itself there is a library of stitches. This is a very handy reference guide for the number and type of stitches that your particular sewing machine can produce. However, as these are printed images, they can sometimes appear slightly different when you stitch them. One great way to see what the stitches on your machine look like in real life is to stitch them; create your own stitch library.

stitch_sample

It’s much easier to see all of the stitches this way, you can alter the stitch length and width to compare to the default stitch and you’ll have this for future reference.

Cut out two pieces of fabric; I used my long ruler as a measure and I chose the full width of a piece of linen and a piece of spare lining fabric.It’s much easier to see all of the stitches this way, you can alter the stitch length and width to compare to the default stitch and you’ll have this for future reference.

long_ruler_scissors_and_pen

It doesn’t matter if you have a basic machine with a handful of stitches or a top of the range model with hundreds, doing this exercise will enable you to create a very useful chart, get to know your machine and practise your sewing skills, all at the same time.

stitch_library_samples

The main thing to remember is to have fun! Making a stitch library will boost your confidence and when it’s finished, you’ll have something pretty to look at too!

Until next time…

blog_signature

Thread Basics: The Ultimate Beginner’s Guide to Sewing and Embroidery

September 19, 2017 By Gaynor Marshall

coloured_thread_bright_fabric

Not all thread is created equal. That may surprise some people, but like most things in life there are good ones and not so good ones! This guide is to help you differentiate between the various types used for machine sewing, quilting and patchwork.

My top tip is to always buy the best you can afford. Buying cheaply is false economy. Chances are you will not be happy with the result; the thread may break in use or fluff so much it affects the smooth running of your sewing machine, especially if you are working on a large project.

Rainbow_threads_and_fabric

Projects

Generally speaking, you should try to match your thread type to the project you are working on. So, for example, if you are making a pair of curtains an all purpose polyester will be fine, if you are working on an heirloom quilt you may want to use a quilting weight 100% cotton. As with everything though, personal preference will be the determining factor. It really is up to you. Years ago, it was considered important to match the fibre of your project with the fibre of the thread, however, with all the improvements in production techniques it isn’t so important. Good quality polyester thread is always handy to have in your cupboard.

Colour

Gutermann_polyester_thread

With all the advances in technology, the choice of colour is almost limitless. Trying to choose can sometimes make you feel like a kid in a candy store…there can seem to be too much choice.

When you are building your range of thread, start with the basics. Neutral tans, grey, black, white and creams, together with a few key colours will be suitable for most projects. After that, you can buy according to the projects you are working on.

Which brand?

As well as types of thread, there are lots of manufacturers. Everyone has their personal favourites. If you are just starting out on your sewing journey, a good place to start is your local fabric or haberdashery shop. They will be able to offer some initial guidance and you’ll soon discover your favourites and be able to build up your supply.

Some things to consider:

  • Darker shades blend in more, lighter shades stand out.
  • Don’t use old thread without testing it first. It may break or even disintegrate.
  • The higher the number on quilting thread the finer it is so; #60 is finer than #40. A good place to start is #50.
  • If there is a letter on the thread, A is fine and D is heavy.
  • Remember to check you have the correct needle when you use speciality threads.
  • For stretchy fabrics use a polyester thread because it has a little give in it.
  • Hand-sewing thread should not be used in your machine.
  • In most cases, it is perfectly fine to use the same thread in the bobbin. However, for machine embroidery, special bobbin thread is available, it is slightly finer and available in black or white.

Types of thread

Cotton  – has very little “give”. Suitable for basic machine or hand sewing projects. 

Polyester – is considered to be an all-purpose thread. Suitable for both machine and hand-sewn projects. It has a little “give” and is therefore useful for stretchy fabrics.

Heavy duty  – this is also a polyester thread and is suitable for upholstery, canvas and other heayweight fabrics.

Hand quilting – 100% mercerized cotton. Strong and silky.

Machine quilting – 100% cotton. Suitable for machine sewing especially good for long arm machine quilting. Not suitable for constructing garments.

Silk – very fine. Often used for embroidery. This is a good choice for basting / tacking fabrics together.

Metallic – Often used in machine embroidery but should not be used in the bobbin. A good choice for top stitching.

Invisible / Monofilament – can be either nylon or polyester. Nylon can become brittle and discolour over time and is not heat resistant. Use when you do not want the stitches to be visible.

I hope you find this guide useful wherever you are on your sewing journey.

Until next time…

Gaynor xx

« Previous Page

Primary Sidebar

Printable Downloads

Search

Join My Substack

Copyright © 2017-2026 Gaynor Marshall

We are using cookies to give you the best experience on our website.

You can find out more about which cookies we are using or switch them off in .

Gaynor Marshall | Sewing and Design
Powered by  GDPR Cookie Compliance
Privacy Overview

This website uses cookies so that we can provide you with the best user experience possible. Cookie information is stored in your browser and performs functions such as recognising you when you return to our website and helping our team to understand which sections of the website you find most interesting and useful.

Strictly Necessary Cookies

Strictly Necessary Cookie should be enabled at all times so that we can save your preferences for cookie settings.

Cookie Policy

More information about our Cookie Policy