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Zips, Part 2: Semi-concealed Zip

January 28, 2018 By Gaynor Marshall

In the second part of my series about inserting zips into your projects, we’ll be looking at how to use a semi-concealed zip.

What are semi-concealed zips?

A semi-concealed zip refers to the way the zip is inserted into the project. With this method the teeth of the zip will not be visible from the right side of the fabric although the stitching will.

You may decide to make more of a feature of the stitching by using a contrasting thread.

There are many uses for this type of insertion, some of which include:

making more of a feature of the zip opening
making cushions
bag making
dress making

A standard zipper foot should be used if you are sewing with a machine.

Did you know?

In 1851, Elias Howe received a patent for an “Automatic, Continuous Clothing Closure”. However, he failed to market the design and in 1893, Mr Whitcomb L. Judson patented and brought to market his “Clasp Locker”. Being the first to market, gave Mr Judson credit for inventing what was later termed the “zipper”.

Materials

fabric
thread
zip
zipper foot

Method:

Cut your fabric to the required size and place right sides together.
Position the zip on your fabric and mark the point at the base of the zip.

Machine stitch the seam to the base of the zip position.
Tack the rest of the seam closed.

Press the seam open.
Place the fabric wrong side up and lay the zip face down over the seam and tack in place.

On the right side, sew carefully down each side of the zip, taking care not to expose the teeth.

Remove tacking stitches.

Remove tacking stitches.

If you missed Part 1 you can find it here.

I hope you are finding this series useful. If you have any questions please pop them in the comments below or you can email me here.

Next time: concealed zips.

Until then…happy sewing!

Zips, Part 1: Invisible Zip

January 21, 2018 By Gaynor Marshall

This week on the blog I’m looking at how to insert an invisible zip.

Zips are a fantastic invention, thank you Mr Whitcomb L. Judson (1893), but the nemesis of many a sewer!

They have the reputation for being difficult to use. However, if you take your time and follow a few basic guidelines they are really quite straightforward.

Types of Zip

Zips themselves come in a number of guises: the two that are regularly used in home furnishings are nylon coil and metal. They are available in a whole rainbow of colours and a large number of sizes.

I tend to use nylon zips as there is no chance of them rusting if washed.

Continuous zips are extremely useful for larger items and upholstery projects. The teeth part of the zip comes on a roll which you then cut to the required length. A number of slides may be included and you can usually buy extra.

Zips can be tricky, but if you use a zipper foot on your machine and take it step by step, you can do it.

As my background is in soft furnishings I will be sharing information relating to home decor rather than fashion, although certain things may be transferable.

Practise makes perfect

You can see that I’ve used spare pieces of fabric in order to show you the techniques and I’ve also used a contrasting thread so that it is easier to see where I have stitched. This is a good way to practise before making up your project as it means you will not spoil any expensive fabric should you need to unpick any first attempts.

Which method should you choose?

The first thing to consider is how do you want your finished project to look. This will determine the method to use.

There are a number of methods for inserting zips:

invisible zips
semi-concealed zips
concealed zips
exposed zips

For example, if you are making a cushion cover, is it important to you that the zip is completely hidden or would you like to incorporate it as a design feature? It is entirely your choice.

The next thing to consider is how long your zip should be.

This will depend entirely on what you are making. For example, if you are making a cushion cover, the opening for the zip will need to be wide enough to insert and remove a cushion pad without too much of a struggle.

Practising all of the techniques is valuable experience and you may find your preference by trying them all.

If you are still unsure, have a look on Pinterest and get a feel for the kind of style you prefer and take it from there.

In order not to overwhelm you, I will show you one technique each week from the list above starting with: invisible zips.

Invisible Zips:

This method means the zip will not be visible on the right side of the fabric on your finished project.

useful when a good colour match is not available
or when any other type of zip insertion would break up the pattern on the fabric
ideal for fabrics that are difficult to sew

A special invisible zipper foot may be available for your machine, although a standard zipper foot may be used just as effectively.

Method:

Cut your fabric to the size required for your project and place the two pieces right sides together.
Using a large machine or tacking stitch close the seam. Press open.

Place the closed zip on the wrong side of the seam, making sure the teeth are centred over the join.
Tack both sides of the zip in place, attaching it ONLY to the seam allowance NOT through to the right side of the fabric.

Remove the original tacking stitches that held the seam closed and open the zip to its base.

Open out the fabric and machine or backstitch down each side of the zip next to the teeth, stitching through the zip tape and seam allowance only and working from the wrong side of the fabric. Sew down as far as the slider.
Keeping the needle in the down position, raise the zipper foot and move the slider up a little and sew to the end of the tape.

Repeat on the other side of the zip. Remove tacking stitches.

As you can see, neither the zip nor the stitches are visible from the front of the fabric.

I hope you find this series useful.

If you have any questions please do not hesitate to contact me or leave a comment below and I will do my best to help.

Next time: semi-concealed zips.

Until then…happy sewing!

Successful Sewing: My 5 Secrets

October 29, 2017 By Gaynor Marshall

The Secrets to Successful Sewing

I have 5 secrets to successful sewing and they will probably surprise you.

Sewing is a skill that we have to learn and not something we are born with.

Sometimes people refuse to learn anything new because they may feel vulnerable, but that’s how we grow. Staying inside our comfort zones is safe but it also means that we never experience anything new.

Read on to discover my 5 secrets to being successful, not just at sewing but anything creative.

1. Remember You Are Awesome.

Surprisingly, being successful at something creative, whether that’s sewing, baking, painting, knitting or something else, isn’t simply about having the latest, most expensive equipment or the largest studio in the most fashionable part of town. It’s much more fundamental than that.

It’s about YOU!

You are the one who has to put in the time and effort into your chosen field of study and practise. Again and again.

2. Practise Makes Perfect.

You don’t have to make complete projects every time you sew, just allow yourself time to play and experiment.

Make use of that basket of scraps, experiment with the stitches on your machine, treat yourself to a few new spools of thread. Check out my beginners guide to thread here.

I’ve seen so many people panic about creating something because they’ve never attempted a particular project before. However, if you are used to handling different fabrics and sewing notions, it becomes much easier to learn a new technique.

Successful sewing really is about building your confidence.

I’m not saying that by playing we’ll all suddenly become experts in everything, far from it. What I am saying is, if you familiarise yourself with the various aspects of your craft, you broaden your experience and expand your skillset.

For example, if you practise inserting zips, the next time you have to insert a zip into a cushion or a piece of clothing, you will at least have an understanding of the process. You will be familiar with it and it won’t be so scary. Use small scraps of fabric and keep them for future reference.

3. Handmade Not Homemade.

My mission is to encourage people to take up sewing and embrace all that that entails. To have a go, have fun and learn new skills. Join a sewing group in your area and make new friends.

Everyone makes mistakes, it’s part of the learning process. Your unpicker will become one of your best friends, believe me, I speak from experience! But, on the other hand, wobbly seams and uneven hems are not the end of the world and the next time you tackle them they will be much better.

However, I am not about cutting corners and making do.

It saddens me when I hear people say things like “life’s too short to hand close a seam”. Really? You would rather finish a beautiful bag by machine stitching the lining closed because it may take a couple of minutes to hand sew it with an invisible ladder stitch?

In my opinion, if you are going to learn how to do something, you should at least learn how to do the basics properly.

4. Learning Resources.

I mentioned joining a local sewing group, but there are lots of options for you to consider when starting your successful sewing journey.

There are plenty of free videos and tutorials around, but be selective. Not all of the contributors are qualified or experienced, so my advice is to take recommendations or at the very least follow someone reputable.

Workshops are a wonderful place to start and can be less expensive and less time consuming than committing to a course of lessons. Being with a tutor is sometimes a better way to learn new techniques, especially if you are a kinaesthetic or hands on type of learner.

Sewing groups on social media can be a good source of information and support, again make sure they can offer what you need.

Last but not least, invest in a book or two.

5. Have Fun.

The main thing to remember on your journey to successful sewing, is to have fun.

Don’t be afraid of making mistakes, we all make them. The trick is to learn from them so that we don’t knowingly repeat them.

Enjoy the process and be proud of the things you make.

If you’d like to share photos of your creations, you can share them over on Instagram using #gaynormdesigns. I’d love to see them.

Until next time…

Gaynor xx

Discover the Inventor of the Sewing Machine: A Fascinating History

September 19, 2017 By Gaynor Marshall

Have you ever wondered who invented the humble sewing machine? As I sew for a living, I thought I’d do a little research and share my findings.

The discovery that this everyday object emerged from very complicated origins may surprise you.

Who invented the Sewing Machine?

There are many claims to who originally invented the sewing machine, so I’ve tried to glean the main contributors from the rest of the pack.

The most prominent dates and names are listed below:

18th Century

1755 – Charles Fredrick Wiesenthal invented the first known mechanical device for sewing. He was awarded a British patent for his invention.

1790 – Thomas Saint is credited with the invention the first sewing machine design using a basic chain stitch. Unfortunately, he did not market or advertise his invention.

Thomas_Saint_sewing_machine_1790 — Thomas Saint 1790

19th Century

1804 – a sewing machine was built by the Englishmen, Thomas Stone and James Henderson, also in this year, a machine for embroidery was constructed by John Duncan in Scotland. Sadly, neither of these machines were successful.

1807 – Austrian tailor, Josef Madersperger began developing his first sewing machine. He presented his working machine in 1814.

1829 – Barthelemy Thimonnier, a French tailor invented the first practical and widely used sewing machine.

Barthelemy_Thimonnier_Sewing_Machine — Barthelemy Thimonnier Sewing Machine 1829

1832 – Walter Hunt invented the first American lockstitch machine. He eventually patented it in 1854.

1841 – British partners, Newton and Archibald, introduced the eye-pointed needle and the use of two pressing surfaces to keep the pieces of fabric in position.

1842 – John Greenough patented the first sewing machine in the United States.

1844 – John Fisher managed to combine all the elements of the previous inventions into one recognisable machine. His original patent was lost in the patent office meaning that he had to watch his contemporaries earn their fortunes instead of him.

1845 – Elias Howe created his machine in Massachusetts. After trying to attract interest in his machine in England he returned to America. He discovered that a number of people, including Isaac Merritt Singer, had been infringing his patent. He took the case to court and won the right to claim royalties from the other manufacturers, including Singer.

Elias_Howe_Patent_howe_sewing_US_4750 — Elias Howe Patent howe-sewing-US-4750

Elias_Howe_1845_the_first_functional_lockstitch_machine — Elias Howe 1845 the first functional lockstitch machine

1851 – Isaac Singer eventually created an improved version of the sewing machines of the time and as a result he was granted an American patent in 1851.

Isaac_Singer_sewing_machine — Isaac Singer sewing machine

The Sewing Machine War

Throughout the rest of the decade so many patents were applied for it became known as the Sewing Machine War.

1856 – Isaac Singer, Elias Howe, Nathaniel Wheeler, Allen B.Wilson, Grover and Baker pooled their patents. This meant that all other manufacturers had to purchase licenses and pay $15 per machine. They called themselves the Sewing Machine Combination. This lasted until the last patent expired in 1877.

1874 – William Newton Wilson found Saints’ drawings, made adjustments to the looper and built a working machine. This machine is currently owned by the London Science Museum.

William_Newton_Wilson_sewing_machine — William Newton Wilson sewing machine

Moving forward

The lesson to learn from this story is that you don’t need to keep re-inventing the wheel. Charles Frederick Wiesenthal was the first person to invent a mechanical way to sew, however, that did not preclude others from exploring the idea.

That said, it isn’t acceptable to simply copy someone else’s intellectual property, as Isaac Singer found to his cost.

Improving the Design

People kept trying to improve on existing designs. They tweaked the stitching method, made the machines more elaborate and even adapted them to use electricity when the time came.

We are continually re-imagining and building upon previous ideas and practices. We develop them, add our own twist and make them unique. That’s what makes our beautiful world go round.

Until next time…