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Gaynor Marshall Designs

Illustration and surface pattern

sewing blog

Combining my Passions, Sew in Love

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After a longer than anticipated break, I’m back.

Last year, I took some much needed time away from my blog and my business, and after a longer than anticipated break, I’m back. Running my business with all that entails together with the stress of looking after my senior Dobermann, Juno, meant I was reaching burn out.

Going to the studio for any length of time on a regular basis is a little tricky as Juno frets if I’m away too long, which means that working at the studio is something I have to fit in when I can. I was worrying constantly about the fact that my studio time was limited and I felt that my shop and my business were suffering as a result.

I can’t change the direction of the wind, but I can adjust my sails to always reach my destination.

Jimmy Dean

That doesn’t mean I did nothing. I may not have been working in my studio but I had my sketch books and my computer at home. After all, I am a creative person and my mind is always thinking and creating even if my hands are still, which they aren’t for very long!

Combining my Passions

During my time away from my business, I continued drawing and pattern designing from home, and just let the ideas evolve.

As I started to get back into business mode, I began to worry again about leaving Juno. I knew there was a way to make everything work, and keep everyone happy, I just had to find it.

Creative thinking inspires ideas. Ideas inspire change.

Barbara Januszkiewicz

My Christmas cards were well received

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Deck the Halls Christmas Wreath Card

During my time at home, I designed some Christmas cards. Initially they were just for fun, but I put them in my shop and they were very well received.

I enjoyed the process and realised that greetings cards were definitely an area I wanted to explore more. I just needed to find my particular niche. I wanted them to fit comfortably with my other products and form a cohesive range.

You can find my Christmas cards here if you’d like to see the complete range.

Going with the flow

If I’m honest, I was enjoying the freedom of drawing and designing just for me. There was no pressure to make products, no worrying about organising time for photoshoots and no deadlines to contend with.

I just went with the flow.

I also took part in some business webinars produced by Alison Wood, my business mentor and the person behind AlisonMWood.com

It was during one of these webinars, where we were discussing who was “your ideal client”, that I had my “Eureka” moment. We were thinking about our particular areas of expertise and how we could use that more in our product offerings.

As I wrote down my areas of expertise, which are: sewing, printing and pattern design, it all started making sense.

Sewing Themed Cards

I had it! It hit me like a thunderbolt. It seemed so obvious, why had I not thought of it before?

Sewing themed greetings cards

This would enable me to combine my passions (sewing and design) and offer a choice of fun, modern and niche cards that would be perfect for all the sewers and needleworkers out there. The best part, at least as far as Juno is concerned, I could work from home without needing to spend hours at the studio.

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I Sew Therefore I Am Greetings Cards
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eat, sleep, sew, repeat, greetings card

Sew in Love

I’m totally inspired by these new cards, in fact you could say that I’m “sew in love” with them! Ideas are flowing and the feedback has been very positive. The cards I designed for Valentine’s Day were extremely popular and I’m about to launch my Mother’s Day range! If you would like to be among the first to see them and hear about other news from the studio you can sign up to my newsletter here.

Taking time out was exactly what I needed. It cleared my mind, re-charged my batteries and allowed me to see what had been in front of me this whole time. I have found a way to combine my passions in a way that works for me and my current situation, and hopefully for my customers too.

I hope you like my new designs as much as I do!

Until next time…

Semi-concealed Zips – Zips, Part 2

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In the second part of my series about inserting zips into your projects, we’ll be looking at how to create semi-concealed zips.

What are semi-concealed zips?

A semi-concealed zip refers to the way the zip is inserted into the project. With this method the teeth of the zip will not be visible from the right side of the fabric although the stitching will.

semi_concealed_zip

You may decide to make more of a feature of the stitching by using a contrasting thread.

There are many uses for this type of insertion, some of which include:

  • making more of a feature of the zip opening
  • making cushions
  • bag making
  • dress making

A standard zipper foot should be used if you are sewing with a machine.

Did you know?

In 1851, Elias Howe received a patent for an “Automatic, Continuous Clothing Closure”. However, he failed to market the design and in 1893, Mr Whitcomb L. Judson patented and brought to market his “Clasp Locker”. Being the first to market, gave Mr Judson credit for inventing what was later termed the “zipper”.

Materials

  • fabric
  • thread
  • zip
  • zipper foot

Method:

  • Cut your fabric to the required size and place right sides together.
  • Position the zip on your fabric and mark the point at the base of the zip.

semi_concealed_zip_position

  • Machine stitch the seam to the base of the zip position.
  • Tack the rest of the seam closed.

tack_seam_in_place

  • Press the seam open.
  • Place the fabric wrong side up and lay the zip face down over the seam and tack in place.

tack_zip_in_place

  • On the right side, sew carefully down each side of the zip, taking care not to expose the teeth.

top_stitch_the_zip_in_place

  • Remove tacking stitches. 

stitch_line

  • Remove tacking stitches.

If you missed Part 1 you can find it here.

I hope you are finding this series useful. If you have any questions please pop them in the comments below or you can email me here.

Next time: concealed zips.

Until then…happy sewing!

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Invisible Zip – Zips, Part 1

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This week on the blog I’m looking at how to insert invisible zips.

Zips are a fantastic invention, thank you Mr Whitcomb L. Judson (1893), but the nemesis of many a sewer!

They have the reputation for being difficult to use. However, if you take your time and follow a few basic guidelines they are really quite straightforward.

Types of Zip

Zips themselves come in a number of guises: the two that are regularly used in home furnishings are nylon coil and metal. They are available in a whole rainbow of colours and a large number of sizes.

I tend to use nylon zips as there is no chance of them rusting if washed.

Continuous zips are extremely useful for larger items and upholstery projects. The teeth part of the zip comes on a roll which you then cut to the required length. A number of slides may be included and you can usually buy extra.

Zips can be tricky, but if you use a zipper foot on your machine and take it step by step, you can do it.

As my background is in soft furnishings I will be sharing information relating to home decor rather than fashion, although certain things may be transferable.

zips

Practise makes perfect

You can see that I’ve used spare pieces of fabric in order to show you the techniques and I’ve also used a contrasting thread so that it is easier to see where I have stitched. This is a good way to practise before making up your project as it means you will not spoil any expensive fabric should you need to unpick any first attempts.

Which method should you choose?

The first thing to consider is how do you want your finished project to look. This will determine the method to use.

There are a number of methods for inserting zips:

  • invisible zips
  • semi-concealed zips
  • concealed zips
  • exposed zips

For example, if you are making a cushion cover, is it important to you that the zip is completely hidden or would you like to incorporate it as a design feature? It is entirely your choice. 

The next thing to consider is how long your zip should be.

This will depend entirely on what you are making. For example, if you are making a cushion cover, the opening for the zip will need to be wide enough to insert and remove a cushion pad without too much of a struggle.

Practising all of the techniques is valuable experience and you may find your preference by trying them all.

If you are still unsure, have a look on Pinterest and get a feel for the kind of style you prefer and take it from there.

In order not to overwhelm you, I will show you one technique each week from the list above starting with: invisible zips.

invisible_zip

Invisible Zips:

This method means the zip will not be visible on the right side of the fabric on your finished project.

  • useful when a good colour match is not available
  • or when any other type of zip insertion would break up the pattern on the fabric
  • ideal for fabrics that are difficult to sew

A special invisible zipper foot may be available for your machine, although a standard zipper foot may be used just as effectively.

Method:

  • Cut your fabric to the size required for your project and place the two pieces right sides together.
  • Using a large machine or tacking stitch close the seam. Press open.

tack_seam

press_seam_open

  • Place the closed zip on the wrong side of the seam, making sure the teeth are centred over the join.
  • Tack both sides of the zip in place, attaching it ONLY to the seam allowance NOT through to the right side of the fabric.

tack_zip_in_place

close_up_of_tacking_stitches

  • Remove the original tacking stitches that held the seam closed and open the zip to its base.

undo_tacking_stitches

open_zip

  • Open out the fabric and machine or backstitch down each side of the zip next to the teeth, stitching through the zip tape and seam allowance only and working from the wrong side of the fabric. Sew down as far as the slider.
  • Keeping the needle in the down position, raise the zipper foot and move the slider up a little and sew to the end of the tape.

sew_zip_in_place

stitch_line

  • Repeat on the other side of the zip. Remove tacking stitches.

remove_tacking_stitches

finished_zip

As you can see, neither the zip nor the stitches are visible from the front of the fabric.

I hope you find this series useful.

If you have any questions please do not hesitate to contact me or leave a comment below and I will do my best to help.

Next time: semi-concealed zips.

Until then…happy sewing!

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Christmas celebrations

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As you settle down with your loved ones to enjoy the Christmas celebrations this year, I wonder if you’ve ever thought about why we celebrate Christmas the way we do?

It’s easy to get caught up in the here and now, the hustle and bustle of present wrapping and food shopping, without ever thinking about the rituals and traditions that make up many family Christmases.

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Christmas celebrations

I know people around the world celebrate Christmas in many ways, but I’d like to share a few traditions that make up part of my family’s traditions here in the UK.

Why do we celebrate on the 25th December?

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The short answer is, no one really knows.

It is likely connected to the Winter solstice and the Roman pagan mid-winter festival of Saturnalia as both took place around this time. They were a focal point in the darkest months and offered hope for the lighter months to come.

Surprisingly, it was 200 years after Christ’s death before his birthday was actually celebrated.  Then it wasn’t until 440 AD that 25th December became the official date.

Why do we pull Christmas crackers?

From the utterly naff to the extremely decadent and everything in between, crackers are such an intrinsic part of Christmas. The awful jokes and the paper hats all add to the fun, and yes I do wear my hat all afternoon!

We have been pulling Christmas crackers in their current format since 1847.

It all began in 19th Century London. Sweet shop owner Tom Smith copied the French idea of selling sugared almonds in a twist of paper.

Before long he began wrapping small toys and novelties and added the snap after sparks and pops from his fire inspired him.

Why do we send cards?

first_christmas_card

It all started as a marketing ploy to get ordinary people to use the newly formed Public Post Office.

In 1843, Sir Henry Cole and his friend John Callcott Horsley, got together and designed the first Christmas card.

The rest, as they say, is history.

Lots of people send emails at Christmas instead of paper cards, but I don’t think real cards will ever really go out of fashion. Responsibly sourced paper from certified manufacturers ensures we don’t need to harm the environment either.

I hope you’ve enjoyed reading about the history behind some of our favourite Christmas traditions and celebrations.

Merry Christmas to all

I look forward to sharing lots more creative adventures in 2018 and I would love you to join me.

Before I go, I’d like to take this opportunity to wish you and yours a Merry Christmas and a peaceful New Year!

Until next time…

Gaynor xx

Successful Sewing: My 5 Secrets

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The Secrets to Successful Sewing

I have 5 secrets to successful sewing and they will probably surprise you.

Sewing is a skill that we have to learn and not something we are born with.

Sometimes people refuse to learn anything new because they may feel vulnerable, but that’s how we grow. Staying inside our comfort zones is safe but it also means that we never experience anything new.

Read on to discover my 5 secrets to being successful, not just at sewing but anything creative.

1. Remember You Are Awesome.

Surprisingly, being successful at something creative, whether that’s sewing, baking, painting, knitting or something else, isn’t simply about having the latest, most expensive equipment or the largest studio in the most fashionable part of town. It’s much more fundamental than that.

It’s about YOU!

You are the one who has to put in the time and effort into your chosen field of study and practise. Again and again.

2. Practise Makes Perfect.

You don’t have to make complete projects every time you sew, just allow yourself time to play and experiment.

Make use of that basket of scraps, experiment with the stitches on your machine, treat yourself to a few new spools of thread. Check out my beginners guide to thread here.

embroidered_turquoise_pincushion

jewel_coloured_threads

I’ve seen so many people panic about creating something because they’ve never attempted a particular project before. However, if you are used to handling different fabrics and sewing notions, it becomes much easier to learn a new technique.

Successful sewing really is about building your confidence.

I’m not saying that by playing we’ll all suddenly become experts in everything, far from it. What I am saying is, if you familiarise yourself with the various aspects of your craft, you broaden your experience and expand your skillset.

For example, if you practise inserting zips, the next time you have to insert a zip into a cushion or a piece of clothing, you will at least have an understanding of the process. You will be familiar with it and it won’t be so scary. Use small scraps of fabric and keep them for future reference.

zip_sample

3. Handmade Not Homemade.

My mission is to encourage people to take up sewing and embrace all that that entails. To have a go, have fun and learn new skills. Join a sewing group in your area and make new friends.

Everyone makes mistakes, it’s part of the learning process. Your unpicker will become one of your best friends, believe me, I speak from experience! But, on the other hand, wobbly seams and uneven hems are not the end of the world and the next time you tackle them they will be much better.

However, I am not about cutting corners and making do.

It saddens me when I hear people say things like “life’s too short to hand close a seam”. Really? You would rather finish a beautiful bag by machine stitching the lining closed because it may take a couple of minutes to hand sew it with an invisible ladder stitch?

simple_ladder_stitch

In my opinion, if you are going to learn how to do something, you should at least learn how to do the basics properly.

4. Learning Resources.

I mentioned joining a local sewing group, but there are lots of options for you to consider when starting your successful sewing journey.

There are plenty of free videos and tutorials around, but be selective. Not all of the contributors are qualified or experienced, so my advice is to take recommendations or at the very least follow someone reputable.

Workshops are a wonderful place to start and can be less expensive and less time consuming than committing to a course of lessons. Being with a tutor is sometimes a better way to learn new techniques, especially if you are a kinaesthetic or hands on type of learner.

Sewing groups on social media can be a good source of information and support, again make sure they can offer what you need.

Last but not least, invest in a book or two.

5. Have Fun.

The main thing to remember on your journey to successful sewing, is to have fun.

Don’t be afraid of making mistakes, we all make them. The trick is to learn from them so that we don’t knowingly repeat them.

Enjoy the process and be proud of the things you make.

If you’d like to share photos of your creations, you can share them over on Instagram using #gaynormdesigns. I’d love to see them.

Until next time…

Gaynor xx