soft furnishings

Semi-concealed Zips – Zips, Part 2

January 28, 2018 By Gaynor Marshall

In the second part of my series about inserting zips into your projects, we’ll be looking at how to create semi-concealed zips.

What are semi-concealed zips?

A semi-concealed zip refers to the way the zip is inserted into the project. With this method the teeth of the zip will not be visible from the right side of the fabric although the stitching will.

You may decide to make more of a feature of the stitching by using a contrasting thread.

There are many uses for this type of insertion, some of which include:

making more of a feature of the zip opening
making cushions
bag making
dress making

A standard zipper foot should be used if you are sewing with a machine.

Did you know?

In 1851, Elias Howe received a patent for an “Automatic, Continuous Clothing Closure”. However, he failed to market the design and in 1893, Mr Whitcomb L. Judson patented and brought to market his “Clasp Locker”. Being the first to market, gave Mr Judson credit for inventing what was later termed the “zipper”.

Materials

fabric
thread
zip
zipper foot

Method:

Cut your fabric to the required size and place right sides together.
Position the zip on your fabric and mark the point at the base of the zip.

Machine stitch the seam to the base of the zip position.
Tack the rest of the seam closed.

Press the seam open.
Place the fabric wrong side up and lay the zip face down over the seam and tack in place.

On the right side, sew carefully down each side of the zip, taking care not to expose the teeth.

Remove tacking stitches.

Remove tacking stitches.

If you missed Part 1 you can find it here.

I hope you are finding this series useful. If you have any questions please pop them in the comments below or you can email me here.

Next time: concealed zips.

Until then…happy sewing!

Invisible Zip – Zips, Part 1

January 21, 2018 By Gaynor Marshall

This week on the blog I’m looking at how to insert invisible zips.

Zips are a fantastic invention, thank you Mr Whitcomb L. Judson (1893), but the nemesis of many a sewer!

They have the reputation for being difficult to use. However, if you take your time and follow a few basic guidelines they are really quite straightforward.

Types of Zip

Zips themselves come in a number of guises: the two that are regularly used in home furnishings are nylon coil and metal. They are available in a whole rainbow of colours and a large number of sizes.

I tend to use nylon zips as there is no chance of them rusting if washed.

Continuous zips are extremely useful for larger items and upholstery projects. The teeth part of the zip comes on a roll which you then cut to the required length. A number of slides may be included and you can usually buy extra.

Zips can be tricky, but if you use a zipper foot on your machine and take it step by step, you can do it.

As my background is in soft furnishings I will be sharing information relating to home decor rather than fashion, although certain things may be transferable.

Practise makes perfect

You can see that I’ve used spare pieces of fabric in order to show you the techniques and I’ve also used a contrasting thread so that it is easier to see where I have stitched. This is a good way to practise before making up your project as it means you will not spoil any expensive fabric should you need to unpick any first attempts.

Which method should you choose?

The first thing to consider is how do you want your finished project to look. This will determine the method to use.

There are a number of methods for inserting zips:

invisible zips
semi-concealed zips
concealed zips
exposed zips

For example, if you are making a cushion cover, is it important to you that the zip is completely hidden or would you like to incorporate it as a design feature? It is entirely your choice.

The next thing to consider is how long your zip should be.

This will depend entirely on what you are making. For example, if you are making a cushion cover, the opening for the zip will need to be wide enough to insert and remove a cushion pad without too much of a struggle.

Practising all of the techniques is valuable experience and you may find your preference by trying them all.

If you are still unsure, have a look on Pinterest and get a feel for the kind of style you prefer and take it from there.

In order not to overwhelm you, I will show you one technique each week from the list above starting with: invisible zips.

Invisible Zips:

This method means the zip will not be visible on the right side of the fabric on your finished project.

useful when a good colour match is not available
or when any other type of zip insertion would break up the pattern on the fabric
ideal for fabrics that are difficult to sew

A special invisible zipper foot may be available for your machine, although a standard zipper foot may be used just as effectively.

Method:

Cut your fabric to the size required for your project and place the two pieces right sides together.
Using a large machine or tacking stitch close the seam. Press open.

Place the closed zip on the wrong side of the seam, making sure the teeth are centred over the join.
Tack both sides of the zip in place, attaching it ONLY to the seam allowance NOT through to the right side of the fabric.

Remove the original tacking stitches that held the seam closed and open the zip to its base.

Open out the fabric and machine or backstitch down each side of the zip next to the teeth, stitching through the zip tape and seam allowance only and working from the wrong side of the fabric. Sew down as far as the slider.
Keeping the needle in the down position, raise the zipper foot and move the slider up a little and sew to the end of the tape.

Repeat on the other side of the zip. Remove tacking stitches.

As you can see, neither the zip nor the stitches are visible from the front of the fabric.

I hope you find this series useful.

If you have any questions please do not hesitate to contact me or leave a comment below and I will do my best to help.

Next time: semi-concealed zips.

Until then…happy sewing!

Creative uses for machine embroidery.

November 5, 2017 By Gaynor Marshall

Design your own fabric using decorative machine embroidery!

I’m sure you’ll agree, beautiful fabric is one of lifes’ necessities…erm…ok…luxuries; the colour, the texture, the feelings it can evoke, the endless creative possibilities. You’ll also be aware of how expensive good quality fabric can be. I’m not trying to talk myself out of my surface design job, but I want to share a quick and easy way to create gorgeous, unique fabric using only plain fabric and thread.

Decorative Machine Embroidery.

Your sewing machine is a fabulous tool. A very, under-used tool. Most of the time, the only stitch we use is the straight stitch; much needed and very necessary when sewing seams, but not the only one available.

Even if you have an entry level sewing machine, it will have a good handful of utility and decorative machine embroidery stitches. Have a look. If you create a stitch library you will be able to see at a glance the array of stitches available to you.

I have designed a number of projects suitable for using any of the stitches you have on your machine. Use them to create home decor items, either for yourself or to give to a loved one or friend.

Projects.

1. Pincushion

The first project I want to share is a pincushion. Very simple to put together but very stylish and no one anywhere will have one the same style.

I wanted to create a 6″ (15cm) finished pincusion. I cut 2 squares of main fabric and two squares of lining measuring 6.5″ x 6.5″ ( 16cm x 16cm approx.). You don’t have to use lining fabric you could use stabiliser, thin wadding or anything you have to hand for the inside.

Using two contrasting colours makes a bigger impact.
For the turquoise side I used a bright pink thread and for the green side I used a turquoise thread. I find the best thing to do is to draw a straight line with an air erasable pen so that your first row of stitches is straight. It doesn’t matter whether you start at the edge of your fabric or the centre, I prefer to start in the centre and then space the rows evenly either side.

You may choose to sew a random selection of decorative embroidery stitches, or you could mirror them to create a further interesting design feature.
Once both your fabric pieces are complete, place them right sides together and sew them together using a straight stitch, remembering to leave a small gap for turning.

When you have turned the pincushion out and you are happy with the corners, stuff it firmly with toy or craft stuffing. The trick when stuffing anything is to use small pieces until it is firm and evenly filled.
Hand sew the gap using a ladder stitch.

I also rotated the fabric pieces, so that on one side the stitches ran top to bottom and on the reverse they are side to side. Another design feature for a totally bespoke pincushion.

2. Scissor Keeper

The instructions for making scissor keepers is almost identical to those for a pincushion. The only difference, apart from size, is you need to add a piece of ribbon or cord before you stitch the two pieces together.

For reference my scissor keepers measure 2″ x 2″ and 3″ x 2.5″ finished sizes (5cm x 5cm & 7.5cm x 6cm approx). Add 1/4″ (1cm) for the seam allowances.

Carefully tack / baste the ribbon in place before stitching the outer pieces together.

These handy little notions can be made in a variety of sizes for different scissors and can even be used as keyrings.

3. Hoop Art.

Use fabric in an embroidery hoop as a modern style of wall art.

These clever little inventions lend themselves perfectly to home decor. Arrange them in groups of varying sizes to add interest to a plain wall.

To crate your own hoop art, choose the hoop size you wish to use and stitch your fabric. Make sure the piece of fabric you use is big enough to fit inside the hoop.
Trim the fabric piece by using the inner hoop as a template and fix onto the frame.

Display proudly on your wall!

4. Wall Art.

Another idea is to stitch a panel of fabric using decorative machine embroidery stitches and display in a box frame. I created a simple design by using one stitch in the centre of the panel and then I mirrored the outer stitches to form a balanced design.

Use more than one colour and see the different effects you can achieve. A rainbow of colours would look stunning.

I hope you enjoy creating your own fabric using the decorative machine stitches on your sewing machine. Feel free to share photos of your makes using #gaynormdesigns over on Instagram, I’d love to see them.

Until next time…

Gaynor xx

Stitch Library – Ultimate Guide

September 24, 2017 By Gaynor Marshall

A stitch library is something every sewer should make.

“I finally bought the sewing machine, now what?”

I bet this question resonates with lots of people who’ve bought a sewing machine. You’ve dreamt of the day you can fill your world with things you’ve sewn yourself. The entire new wardrobe of clothes you’ll be able to make, the curtains and cushions…lots and lots of cushions.

You’ve spent weeks, months even years choosing just the right machine; you’ve watched all the shopping channels until you know as much about the technical aspect of all their machines as the presenters.

However, now you actually have the longed for sewing machine, what do you do? Where do you start?

This scenario reminds me of the time, shortly after hubby and I got married; you know back when the world was still in black and white (as my boys thought when they were little!), when we bought our first microwave. I thought it was really exciting, hubby not so much, his mum already had one.

Anyway, we brought this cool, modern gadget home. This was going to save so much time, the gas cooker will just gather dust now, surely. Well, there it sat on the worktop and we stood and admired it, we read the manual, we read the suggested recipes. What though, should we actually cook first? No idea. We re-read the recipe suggestions. No. Nothing was jumping out.

Eventually, we heated something up, beans, I think. The point was, we were at a bit of a loss as to what we should do first. We, had been so caught up in having a microwave that we didn’t really plan beyond buying it, and that’s how many people feel when they open their first sewing machine at home.

Well, the first thing to do is take it out of the box. It’s okay to sit and admire it for a while; you can make a cuppa, take out the manual and read it.

Familiarise yourself with the basics of the set-up and following the instructions in the manual, thread your machine. Practise a few rows of straight stitching on a scrap piece of fabric to check everything is working correctly.

At this point, unless you have a definite plan of action it would be so easy to put everything away. You know how it all works, you’ve had a little sew. Well, I suggest you do this instead…

You will have noticed that in the manual and probably on the machine itself there is a library of stitches. This is a very handy reference guide for the number and type of stitches that your particular sewing machine can produce. However, as these are printed images, they can sometimes appear slightly different when you stitch them. One great way to see what the stitches on your machine look like in real life is to stitch them; create your own stitch library.

It’s much easier to see all of the stitches this way, you can alter the stitch length and width to compare to the default stitch and you’ll have this for future reference.

Cut out two pieces of fabric; I used my long ruler as a measure and I chose the full width of a piece of linen and a piece of spare lining fabric.It’s much easier to see all of the stitches this way, you can alter the stitch length and width to compare to the default stitch and you’ll have this for future reference.

It doesn’t matter if you have a basic machine with a handful of stitches or a top of the range model with hundreds, doing this exercise will enable you to create a very useful chart, get to know your machine and practise your sewing skills, all at the same time.

The main thing to remember is to have fun! Making a stitch library will boost your confidence and when it’s finished, you’ll have something pretty to look at too!

Until next time…

soft furnishings

What are semi-concealed zips?

Did you know?

Materials

Method:

Types of Zip

Practise makes perfect

Which method should you choose?

Invisible Zips:

Method:

Decorative Machine Embroidery.

Projects.

1. Pincushion

2. Scissor Keeper

3. Hoop Art.

4. Wall Art.

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